This post is dedicated to the people of the couchsurfing community who not only took the time to provide us accommodation, but also took the time to welcome us into their lives and just be there for us when we were lost.  At times, traveling can be a lonely experience (even as a couple), but it only took a glance at our CS host album to conjure up the memories that put the smile back on our face and the stride back in our step once again.  We are unable to put into words exactly how grateful we feel for every single moment and we know that our experiences would not have been half as interesting, amazing, or fun without your kindnesses along the way.

From you, we learned how to make roti, tortilla and egg breakfast, mate, chicken marsala, arepas, homemade hamburger buns, green fettuccine, and Greek salad.  We learned how to toast correctly, greet politely (one kiss or two according to region), and travel safely.  We learned the importance of slicing cheese at the right angle, buying bread from the bakery on a specific street because the lady is nicer, and ordering skepasti from the restaurant nearby because it’s the best.  We were happy to drink at the hole-in-the-wall pubs with the cheapest beers on tap, eat flavorful cuisine at local hangouts, inhale fruity-smelling shisha smoke at shisha cafes, sip bitter Turkish coffee on floor cushions, and lick fingers after partaking in greasy street food.

From you, we learned about your frustrations with or your loyalty to your government, your interest in your nation’s history and how it shaped you, and your passion to advocate change and make a difference inside or outside of your country.  From you, we learned to step outside of our comfort zone and consider travel to regions we would never have glanced at, we hitchhiked, tried eye tacos, and (despite her fear of flying) Deenaree’s actually entertained the idea of sky-diving.  We learned to view our own country with a newfound appreciation because of your documentary on your small-town U.S. road trip or because of the book you are writing based on your quest to trace your family history here.

If it wasn’t for your suggestions, we would not have hiked up the Devil’s Molar, or been aware that the Latvian Song and Dance Festival is a great time to catch up on Latvian traditional dress, or known which open-air market to buy the best vegetables, or where to catch the ferry over the Bosphorus, or where to grab some ice cream in Buenos Aires at 11:00 at night.  We wouldn’t have known where the best place was to watch the World Cup in Vilnius, or to view ships crossing the Panama Canal, or catch a Tobago sunset on a quiet beach, or see kitsch decor at it’s most appalling in Stellenbosch, or observe Lithuanians madly playing trivia in Klaipeda.

We experienced art on a new level because of your pottery lesson, your ambition to see every movie ever made, your collection of cd’s that range in the THOUSANDS, and your recommendation to read books by a famous Columbian author who happens to be your favorite.  Some of you are incredibly talented musicians, photographers, singers, actors, writers, and artists.  We thank you for sharing your gifts with us.

We so appreciated your inclusion of us in your family gatherings and friend’s events.  We had barely just met, but that didn’t stop you from inviting us to your cousin’s wedding, your birthday celebration, or your family’s dinner table.  And although we had barely just met, your willingness to speak openly of your own dreams to travel, pursue additional education, change your career, start a new entrepreneurial venture, or move to another country and begin a new life left us inspired (and some of your biggest fans), too.

We thank you for the opportunity to have had this glimpse into your lives.  Our time with you was so valuable to us that we tended to leave wishing for more of it or even for an opportunity to live just a bit closer to you!  Thanks again for everything.  We hope we can see you soon somewhere in this world.  Keep in touch!

Love,

Ben and Deenaree

]]> http://travelstainedlife.com/2010/09/06/pieces-of-our-happiness/feed/ 1 http://travelstainedlife.com/2009/12/04/something-for-everyone/ http://travelstainedlife.com/2009/12/04/something-for-everyone/#comments Fri, 04 Dec 2009 18:55:04 +0000 Ben http://travelstainedlife.com/?p=662 Continue reading →]]> During our time in South America, we have been fortunate to meet many locals as well as fellow travelers. One of the great joys of meeting other travelers is the immediate gratification of sharing your stories. Another is hearing their stories, in many instances allowing you to drop your Lonely Planet for awhile and use the advice of those you meet.

Way back in Quito, we had a nice dinner with an ambitious Irish gap year couple who were on their way from Lima to Cartegena. The conversation moved from the best Ecuadorian food to the highlights of the Peruvian coast. They gushed about buses in Peru, beasts we are led to believe are death traps. They had less than kind words for Lima and highly recommended a little beach town in Peru called Huanchaco, the birthplace of surfing. Armed with our newly formed opinions, we had our initial itinerary for Peru set. We would stop in Huanchaco for a few days on the way to Lima and keep our time there short to see the better parts of Peru.

As a result of Couchsurfing, we ended up staying 10 miles from Huanchaco in the considerably bigger city of Trujillo. It is a livable city with nearby beaches (Huanchaco) and pre-Columbian ruins the only reasons to visit. Maybe as a result of our cool Couchsurfing pad/cafe/bar owned by the lead singer of the Peruvian metal band, Metal Inca, or our infatuation with ceviche, we loved Trujillo. The city square is lined by colorful colonial buildings, most of which are at least a century old. Ceviche in coastal Peru is different than anywhere else in the world. For 12 soles (about 4 US dollars), we were able to get a portion of raw seafood to feed us both. With clams, mussles, shrimp, squid, octopus and whitefish, we savored every bite.

During our stay, we took the time to visit Huanchaco, the original reason for our visit to the area. In general, Huanchaco left us very underwhelmed. With a long, straight approach from Trujillo, the landscape loomed like a barren wasteland. Dust was so thick in the air that even at 200 feet from the ocean, it was barely visible. Once we reached town, we were no more impressed. Cookie cutter modern buildings and pizza joints looking strikingly like Pizza Hut were only saved by the cute Peruvian kids doning wetsuits and toting surfboards twice their height. A short walk on the beach and a jaunt through town was enough for us.

As we approached Lima enroute from Trujillo, we were tentative about how much time to spend. With less than glowing reviews, and Nazca and Cuzco looming, we were prepared for a few days to be enough. Upon arrival in the morning, we took a taxi straight to the barrio of Miraflores to check on Couchsurfing or hostels in the popular area. Upon our initial interaction with Miraflores we were immediately drawn to Lima. The high beachside cliffs, countless cafes and restaurants and seemingly laidback atmosphere reminded us both of San Diego. The analogy was complete with parasailers diving off the cliff and beachside parks providing greenspace and attractive art and fountains.

During our remaining 4 days in Lima we spent time in a few of the many barrios. All were wonderful places in their own way. Central Lima is filled with some of the most attractive old buildings we have seen in South America. Barranco is the wonderfully quaint Bohemian district filled with popular bars, restaurants and gorgeous aging houses. San Isidro is a mixed bag providing the financial center of Lima as well as posh golf courses and parks.

In the end, we were grateful for our new Irish friends advice. Maybe our experiences were different and maybe we have different tastes, but the chance to see new places and form your own opinion is priceless.

During the first days of our visit, Roger was already hosting a Panamanian born Israeli.  We were intrigued to learn about Tel Aviv (the city he came from) and we were reminded of the fact that Israel is not as unsafe as media paints it.  This man has traveled all over and tells us more about the countries we hope to visit.  He is very laid back and we soon find that he has some crazy travel stories including one about a machete wielding El Salvadorian he encountered one night.

On our 3rd day in Panama, a fourth guest came to Roger’s house.  Michael, a German man, stopped in Panama City on his way to the end of the world for a documentary he’s filming.  We found out that he has had a very eventful career starting with his first job reporting for German MTV, interviewing famous celebrities.  During his Panama City visit, he assumed different characters all in the name of documentary film making.  He had some crazy antics, but for the sake of his career, we will not go into these.  We will say that due to his antics and Roger’s choir involvement, we were able to gain access into the National Theater and take pictures of actors rehearsing in costume and the lavish theater interior.

Michael’s visit matched ours and he was scheduled to leave around the same time period.  We were on our way to Ecuador and he was on his way to Columbia next.  As a final salute, we spent the last night celebrating his belated birthday with a pink, flowery cake and a candlestick (Roger did not have small birthday candles).  We drank Merlot out of a box and exchanged gifts.  From this, we left with mini, porcelain lucky Berlin pigs.  In Michael’s last conversation with Roger, we hear him asking where he can purchase a black wig and fake mustache.  We are not sure why, but all will surely be explained in his documentary.

We leave Panama City with happy memories of intriguing people.  Although finding couchsurfing hosts can be tough, we are pleased with the people we do end up meeting along the way.  They provide the excitement and comedic relief for a trip such as this.